Two years ago, I wouldn’t have imagined that with a group of 20 olive enthusiasts we would immerse ourselves in the scenery of organic olive groves and pick olives together. The most devoted ones would take the fruits to Sofia to cure them, following the slow traditional method and enjoy them only in spring. I wouldn’t have envisioned that we would cherish the generous November sun and delight in tasting local delicacies – at an early breakfast in the open air, with splendid views of quiet mountain slopes. Trimmed in the palette of autumn and welcoming us wherever we turn our sight to. Orvilos (Slavyanka in Bulgaria), Falakro, Rhodope and Menikio, the mountain bridging lands of Drama and Serres districts.
Our olive weekend unfolded genuinely and warm-heartedly, revealing the magic of the olive season and its precious gifts.
After filling the nets and crates with Kalamon olives,
full of excitement and satisfaction, we engaged ourselves in a tasting session of 4 different batches of the new olive oil. They carry the soul of 4 distinct gardens in the lands of Eliris – the Eagle’s nest, the Sunrise Garden, and more, and more. All of them are early harvests of the 2024 season and blends of 6-7-8 different and distinct Greek varieties. I tend to agree with the words of our partner in this endeavor, Zhivko from Forest Lab http://www.forestlab.bg , that single-varietal oils are intriguing because they express the character and potential of one variety bonded with the specific terroir. Yet, multivarietal blends require high mastery to combine the fruits of various cultivars and achieve vibrant oils with pronounced character. Memorable ones that we keep with our senses.
In this tasting we had both styles, and they captivated us,
with aromas of freshly cut grass and herbs, tomato stalk and fruit, green apple and golden delicious, chicory and dandelion leaves, peach and forest berries, sweet and green almond, wildflowers – so rich and diverse, as if we stepped into a fragrant spring meadow. We liked that flavor and aroma journey because it had everything – elegant and fluid oils without being intrusive to the palate, sparkling and vibrant amber color, layers of aromas that reveal themselves gradually, bold spiciness that lingers on and on, and bitterness that is surprisingly pleasant. It was an infinite pleasure for all of us to take a sip, and then a second, and a third one to fully experience all the flavors and perfumes.
And laughing to make a stripaggio, which inevitably made us cough. Indeed, when we purposefully breathe in air into the mouth, the pepperiness becomes more vivid and leads to this magical effect. Especially with medium and high phenolic oils.
There was coughing, teary eyes, and a lot of laughter,
experiences that make every tutor extremely happy. They are a clear sign that beneficial polyphenols are present, and they do work. Extra virgin olive oil contains about 40 phenolic compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. Oleocanthal, oleacein, oleuropein, tyrosol and hydroxytyrosol contribute greatly to the valuable characteristics – Bitterness and Pungency. There is a guiding rule – the more an extra virgin is bitter and burning in the throat, the richer the polyphenol content is.
There is no other fat with similar, beneficial composition.
It is extremely abundant in the mono-unsaturated oleic fatty acid (Omega 9, on average 75%). It is good for the heart and balances blood pressure and cholesterol levels, good for the skin and for the non-retention of food and toxins in the body, with anti-cancer activity. Extra virgin olive oil is rich in phenolic antioxidants and hydrocarbons (squalene and provit. A) with anti-inflammatory and protective role. It is beneficial die to vitamins E and K, fighting free radicals, and facilitating the synthesis of some proteins and calcium bonding in the bones.
After the euphoria of the new oil and the early October harvest,
quite naturally our special session extra virgin olive oil and food pairing” came on stage. With Iris, our host from Eliris olive oil estate, we set a magical and rich seasonal table. It was thought to be the expression of abundance and diversity of nature in fall, of the Mediterranean diet as a philosophy of eating and livinghttps://mypureolive.com/medditeranean-diet-hooray/ . Sharing, smiles, full and empty plates, and flavors that captivate the senses. In addition to the home-baked bread in a neighboring village, we prepared and paired:
a/ cream of yellow fava with mint and cumin
b/ hummus with roasted pumpkin, sage, rosemary and orange c/ cream of beetroot, mizithra & pistachio
d/ blanched endive with lemon vinaigrette
e/ salad of leafy greens with glazed roasted quince, pomegranate and walnuts with balsamic vinegar vinaigrette
f/ feta Pangeo with oregano and paprika
We sommeliers like saying “There is olive oil for every dish, and vice versa”.
This is true, because we can select an oil with delicate aromatic and flavor profile to enrich and highlight the character of a dish. With medium extra virgin olive oils, we can’t go wrong, they fit many dishes due to their rounded characteristics. Yet, with the intense/ robust oils, we can bring contrast and genuine euphoria to the food.
Similar likes similar, but also different likes different – two approaches to pair olive oil and food that a chef can choose for a given dish. It much depends on their imagination and courage, and what they envision to present and surprise their guests.
To make the olive oil experience complete, we also visited the olive mill,
where Eliris craft their oils, employing the cold extraction technology. It is always curious to see the olive crates that travel along the strip for defoliation (with an air stream) and washing. Then they are crushed with the pits – that magical process where more than 70% of the aromas are formed. 15-10 min. malaxation to form and then release the oil droplets into the decanters. At that stage the pomace is separated as a residual product. It is good practice to return it to the olive grove as a natural fertilizer. Another common practice is to sell it to refineries as raw material for refined olive oils. In this case it is labeled “olive pomace oil” or just “pomace”.
As an ambassador of extra virgin olive oil,
(the highest quality category, pure fruit juice from the olive fruit, without defects and additives, and extracted at max. 27C),
I wouldn’t recommend pomace oil for our kitchen. Any refining implies high temperatures, chemicals, and thus loss of natural and health benefits. During our visit, we also paid attention to the basic filtration of the oil. Its aim is to eliminate the residual particles from the olive paste. If left, they lead to subsequent fermentation and change of quality and flavor profile. There is no such happiness to look at a sparkling new olive oil flowing from the centrifuge. Its ransformation from a bitter, astringent and chlorophyl tasting fruit, with no pronounced aromas (other than green or ripe) is fascinating. Indeed, thanks to over 100 volatile compounds in the fruit and the following enzymatic activity, the aromas are multiplied. The final product turns into completely novel experience for the palate.
Complimentary, we have enriched the gastronomic program during these two days
with wine tasting at the local Oenops winery and cheeses and yogurt from the brown-color goats native to the area. We also tasted jams from the local women’s cooperative in Kokinogeia and freshly prepared homemade trahana with vegetables and seasonal pumpkin. Saturday dinner was a feast at the mountain taverna in Skopia with many meat delicacies. However, it is important to mention the highest rating for our vegetarian menu in the tasting session. It was given by a devoted meat lover, Zarko,6+ 😊
A month later, I’m writing this little essay about our first olive oil trip with enthusiasts, overfilled with excitement and gratefulness. It feels so nice to share passion and time with like-minded people. With life enthusiasts who appreciate genuine and alive food, flavored with excellent and artisanal extra virgin olive oils. It’s absolutely fabulous! Therefore, there will be more gastronomic, cultural and nature trips, near and far in the Mediterranean. I promise!
